Forget Hollywood fripperies, Madagascar is like no place else on earth. In fact, all things considered, it barely qualifies as part of Africa: the two are separated by hundreds of kilometres of sea and 165 million years of evolution – long enough for Madagascar’s plants and animals to evolve into some of the weirdest forms on the planet. Nowhere else can you see over 70 varieties of lemur, including one that sounds like a police siren, the world’s biggest and smallest chameleons, and the last stomping ground of the elephant bird, the largest bird that ever lived. Near Ifaty in Southern Madagascar you will see forests of twisted, spiny ‘octopus’ trees and in the west, marvel at the bottle-shaped baobabs, especially the Avenue du Boabab near Morondava.
And be on the look out for the carnivorous pitcher plant found around Ranomafana, there are over 60 varieties of them. Not for nothing is Madagascar regarded as the world’s number one conservation priority.
With fascinating tribal cultures and ceremonies and an intriguing assortment of fady (local taboos) thrown in to perplex visitors, Madagascar makes for a truly rewarding experience.
WARNING
In 2001 Madagascans went to the polls for the general elections. During the first round Marc Ravalomanana, a former yogurt seller and businessman, claimed victory, but Ratsiraka refused to accept the vote. Ravalomanana and his supporters mounted mass protests and a general strike at the beginning of 2002. A month later Ravalomanana went ahead and declared himself president anyway, sparking off clashes between rival supporters that nearly brought Madagascar to civil war. Bridges were bombed, and Ratsiraka’s supporters blockaded Antananarivo, cutting off its fuel and food supply for weeks.
The Supreme Court held a recount of the votes and declared Ravalomanana the winner. When the US recognised Ravalomanana as the rightful president, Ratsiraka fled in exile to Paris. Ravalomanana’s ‘I Love Madagascar’ party sealed its popularity at parliamentary elections in December 2002. The new president set about reforming the country’s ruined economy, and announced salary increases for politicians in an effort to stamp out corruption. He generally made the right noises to the World Bank, which, along with France and the US, pledged a total of US$2.3 billion in aid. They, like millions of Malagasies, are hoping that Ravalomanana, a self-made millionaire, can help to finally fulfil Madagascar’s huge economic potential.
Ravalomanana has declared his intention of breaking French cultural influence on the country, and restoring Malagasy language and traditions. His actions to date have included the repair and maintenance of many main roads, a feat that won’t be lost on visitors, and keeping armies of Malagasies employed for months.
Capital: Antananarivo
Area: 587,401 sq km
Population: 16,9 million
Gouvernement: Republic
President: Marc Ravalomanana
People: Eighteen major ethnic groups, including Malayo-Indonesian, African, Arab, French, Indian, Creole and Comoran
Languages: French and malagasy
Religion: Christianity and Islam
Money: Ariary US$1= 1983 Ar
GDP: US$12.3 billion
GDP per head: US$800
Major industries: Agriculture, meat processing, soap, textiles, cement, automotive assembly, petroleum products
Major trading parteners: France, Hong Kong, China, Japan, Singapore
Visa: one month, single-entry visa US$32; issued on arrival
Budget: US$25 to US$30 per day
ATMs: In all major towns
Telephone: Country code 261, international access code 00
Time: GMT/UTC +3
Healh risk: Malaria, Bilhazia, Hepatitis and Diarrhoea
